San jose del Guaviare, Colombia

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San Jose del Guaviare is the capital of the department of Guaviare just south of Meta. This town is not exactly a "safe" destination, it's mostly visited by NGO workers, the military, coke barons and journalists. But if you're coming here anyway, there are some great sites to be visited.

Population: 65,000 Average temperature: 30 degrees Celcius. | Editing history.

Places to stay:

There are a number of reasonable hotels in town. The taxi drivers all get their tips from the bigger ones for bringing tourists in (normally these bigger ones have swiming pools - sometimes a good thing in the heat here.)

Hotel Colombia (1 comments) On the corner of the Parque Bolivar Private rooms available.
Recommended hotel. Rooms with airconditioning go for 40,000 and with a fan for 30,000. Each has a private bathroom and cable TV and if you negotiate they can include breakfast at the next door cafe in the price.

Things to do:

Most people gawp and will question your sanity if you are planning a trip to San Jose del Guaviare and you are not affiliated to some national or international government or non governmental agency. The truth be told, San Jose suffers as it is pretty much on the road to nowhere, anyone heading down this way will have to double back since river travel further than this point is strongly advised against. Road travel can take you as far as Calamar and then beyond that things are mainly impassable.

But, if you make it this far, then you have every right to check out the interesting attractions that lie close to the city. Basically, you can, if you contact the Tourism Office (in the Casa de La Cultura, two blocks from the Parque Bolivar, a blue building) go out and visit some pretty incredible sights that are found within 50km of the city limits. The Tourism guys will likely provide you with a guide, given that nothing is signposted this is important, you'll hire a motorbike and head on out.

The City

Being a city of only 65,000 people, it is small easily navigated and remarkably well kept. The friendly citizens of Guaviare hail from all over Colombia since it is really an expansion town. First forays into this area came about with the rubber boom and then economics drove the people into coca production, farming and cattle. Paisas, Chocoanos, Rolos, Llaneros and the odd Costeno make up this eclectic mix.

If you are expecting to see a city where everyone is on edge, there is a significant tension in the air and the military are trigger happy, then you can think again. San Jose's tree-lined streets, enormous and verdant Parque Bolivar and Zona Rosa where the city's inhabitants gather for evening beers couldn't make you feel further from the front line. It is worth noting that here in San Jose people leave their keys in the ignition in their motorbikes and their front doors open.

Yes, there is a large military presence. The navy are all along the Guaviare River that make the natural border between this department and Meta. The Army are all over the place, the Anti Narcotics squad have a base that is latched onto the airport and if travelling beyond the city limits you'll find yourself subject to frequent and throrough military checkpoints.

Things to Do in and around San Jose del Guaviare

The city itself, despite being accommodating and friendly has no real tourist attractions per se. The local government is keen to promote tourism but in a measured and careful manner. After all they have never really had any tourism and so are eager to start things in the right way and ensure that tourism here is respectful to the local indigenous tribes, the Nukak Maku and the Guayabera, and is environmentally sustainable given the regions diverse flora and fauna.

The Serrania La Lindosa is a small hill range that rises out of where the Llanos end and the Amazon begins. This unique geographical anomaly has given rise to some further point of interest. Some 25 minutes out of San jose by 4x4 or Motorbike one can view La Ciudad de Piedra. If you know the mountains near Canaima in Venezuela, these are essentially a much smaller version. Here the rock formations are closer and in alignment and do resemble the foundations of a city, despite being a natural formation.

Then just on from here you can come and see the Tuneles. Water flow and erosion and the roots of trees have hollowed out and extensive tunnel system through the Serrania. Bats, Cock of the Rock, Loro Pielroja and other species make their homes here.

A short stroll past the awkwardly balanced rocks, much like Dali sculptures, you can find small crystalline pools in which to bathe.

Further attaractions are the Cano Lajas, Laguna Negra, Cabanas Playa Guio and the Cascada Las Delicias.

If you are further interested and can get in touch with the people from the Tourism Office and speak to those at National Parks you can organise a trip out to the Cerro Azul. This journey is a little bit trickier and requires more organising. You take the road to Villavicencio and then turn off just before the bridge over the Guaviare River. A further 1 and a half over bad dirt roads gets you closer and then you have a 40 minute walk. You come to a rock formation measuring 10m by 10m that is covered with indigenous art. No one is sure when exactly or which tribe did this.

Where to Eat

The Cafe Nomada a couple of blocks along the Zona Rosa from the Parque Bolivar offers good burgers and Mexican fare. Otherwise you can get correintazos at just about everywhere and of course the city is lined with ubiquitous chicken eateries.

Temperature

Through winter temperatures run up in the lower 30s. In the summer it has been known to hit 45 degrees!

Getting around & transportation:

Only 400km south of Bogota, a 9 hour bus ride with Cotransmacarena from Bogota via Villavicencio or a 40 minute flight with Satena, one can get to San Jose del Guaviare and see the place with your own eyes.

 

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