Ibagué, Colombia

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Ibagué is the capital city of the Tolima department, and is located on the eastern slopes of the Cordillera Central. It is known as the musical city of Colombia, due to its famous conservatory. At 1250m above sea-level, it has a spring-like climate. Ibagué is a starting point for travellers who wish to do the Nevado del Tolima trek. Apart from that, it's a small, safe friendly city, with a special charm, although there's not an awful lot to do here.

Elevation: 1250 meters. Tel: 098 | Editing history.

Places to stay:

Hotel Luisa (0 comments) Calle 13 No. 4-17 Tel: (08) 263 7952 Tel: 263 9268 Private rooms available.
This modest hotel has double ensuite rooms, with tv. There is no hot water in this hotel.

Hotel Center (0 comments) Cra 4 No. 12-52 Tel: (08) 263 7311 Tel: (08) 263 7322 Website: www.hotelcenteribague.com Private rooms available.
They provide ensuite rooms with hot water.

Hotel Acandi (1 comments) Cra 3 No 11-60 Tel: (098) 2610010 Tel: 2611803/ 2614068 Email: hotelacandi at etb dot net dot co Private rooms available.
Close to the city centre, have ensuite double rooms with hot water.

Casa Morales (0 comments) Cra 3a No. 3-47 Barrio La Pola Tel: (08) 261 9404 Website: www.hotelcasamorales.com
Located close to the centre of the city, this is a quality hotel with fine views. Breakfast is included.

Things to do:

The Conservatorio del Tolima (Calle 9 No. 1-18) founded in 1906. It comprises an old, crumbling building and modern one (ask the guard to show you the views from the top. It's just round the corner from Plaza Bolívar. While the building itself is not that impressive, it's an important part of the city's heritage.

The Jardín Botanico San Jorge (Cra 8 No. 19-120 Barrio Interlaken. Tel: (098) 2638354) is a botanical garden located at the edge of Ibagué. It boasts over 500 species of plants, and has 7 Km of nature trails (visitors can choose between a short, flat walk, or a longer, more challenging one). You'll have the chance to see a coca plant, if you've never seen one before.

The Fundación Orquidea del Tolima (Cra 30 No. 13-35. Tel: (098) 2605995) is a nature reserve with an impressive selection of orchids, including the national flower of Colombia, the endangered Cattleya trianae. There is a nature trail leading to a mirador, where you can see a large part of Ibagué. The people who run this place are super friendly and really care for the place. It is a real refuge of peace and beauty. They also rent rooms and have camping facilities if you want to chill for a couple of days. It is a bit out of the way and doesn´t seem to be well-known. These instructions may help your cabbie: Finca El Bosque via Armenia 300 mts. Adentro del Restaurante Don Adolfo. Be sure to try some of their fruits and veggies that are all over the area!

If you want a good panoramic view of the whole city of Ibagué and the surrounding area, climb up to the top of La Martinica, a nature reserve along the Armenia bypass. It is the hill with several telecommunications masts on top of it. Start early, as it can get quite hot. It will take you 2-3 hours to reach the top (1530 metres).

Hang around Plaza Bolívar watching people.

Places to eat

Lechon and Tamal are the typical dishes of the region.

Shalom serves good quality, inexpensive set meals (Cra 3 between Calle 8 and Calle 9).

Try the cakes and avena drink at Yel Coctel delicatessen (Calle 10 between Cra 4 and Cra5).

Try the delicious freshly baked bread from Mateus (Calle 10 between Cra 3 and Cra4).

If you are in the mood for quality meat and a friendly atmosphere, try El Chuleton (Cra. 3 No. 8-72 about 20 meters from Plaza Bolivar, tel. 263.7013). It is a little expensive (16-18,000 COP per plate) but the servings are large and the carne is first rate. Buy a decent bottle of red on the plaza and see if the upstairs is open for dining.

Going out

Tertulia is a good indoor venue to enjoy a beer while listening to rock music (Cra 5 between Calle 10 and Calle 11).

Libro y Son has a nice setting to listen to salsa and enjoy a few beers, it's near the Universidad del Tolima away from the City centre.

Around Ibagué

Juntas is a nearby village, especially popular at weekends and holidays, where people go and eat almojabanas, bunuelos, sancocho soup and river trout in a peaceful mountain setting. There is also a mirador from which, if you are lucky and there are no clouds, can see the Nevado del Tolima (early morning is best). You can get to Juntas by taking a bus in Cra 1/Calle 14 from "La Ibaguerena" bus company.

From Juntas, you can walk up to El Rancho, some thermal springs in the cloud-forest at 2600 metres above sea-level; it's about a 4 hour leisurely walk uphill alongside the impressive canyon of the Combeima river, or you can take the morning lechero. El Rancho is the starting point for the trek up El Nevado del Tolima (5215 m). This is the mountain in Colombia wher most mountaineers have lost their lives, and to reach the summit a guide is essential. See the Latas route in this Summitpost entry for more details.

From el Rancho, you can walk also walk via the Filtros route to Laguna del Encanto and Salento.

From Juntas, you can also walk to El Derrumbe de las Perlas: when you cross over the river, turn right immediately instead on continuing towards the mirador. After a couple of hours of leisurely walking you'll reach an open valley with a river, an ideal picnic spot. If you continue along this route you can also reach the summit of the Nevado, but this is a quite a long way round. The route is known as Las Nieves', and is via some thermal springs at 3900m where a hermit known as Don Canon lives.

Practical information:

There are numerous cash machines and internet cafés in the centre, as would be expected from a city of this size.

Getting around & transportation:

By plane: aeropuerto Perales in Ibagué is located about 40 minutes outside the city, and has flights from Bogotá and various other cities in Colombia. The main airlines serving Ibagué are Easyfly and Aires.

By bus: Ibagué is a 4 hour bus journey from Bogotá, a 3 hour bus journey from Armenia, and a 2 hour bus journey from Honda. Numerous companies serve these routes. The journey to Armenia involves going over the la linea and is nortorious for accidents, landslides and very occasional guerrilla activity. Avoid doing this part of the journey at night or in a small minibus.

 

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